Authentic Kashmiri shawls are renowned for their exceptional softness, warmth, and intricate craftsmanship, primarily using Pashmina wool. The main types are Pashmina, Kani, and the now-banned Shahtoosh, each prized for different qualities and craftsmanship.

Types of Authentic Kashmiri Shawls
Pashmina Shawls: These are the most common authentic Kashmiri shawls today, made from the fine underhair (pashm) of the Changthangi or Capra hircus goat found in the high altitudes of Ladakh.
Characteristics: Incredibly soft, lightweight, and warm, with a fiber diameter typically ranging from 12 to 16 microns. Authentic pieces are always hand-spun and hand-woven on traditional looms, resulting in a slightly irregular weave.

Variations: They often feature intricate hand-embroidery known as Sozni work (fine needlework with floral or paisley motifs) or Tilla embroidery (using gold or silver threads).
Kani Shawls: These are loom-woven shawls, where the intricate patterns are created during the weaving process itself using small wooden sticks called kanis.
Characteristics: Known for complex, detailed designs (often paisley or floral patterns) that resemble tapestry. They are highly labor-intensive, with some taking months or even years to complete, making them very valuable.

Shahtoosh Shawls: Once considered the “king of wool,” these shawls were made from the hair of the endangered Tibetan antelope (chiru).
Characteristics: Extremely fine (7-10 microns), light enough to pass through a finger ring (the “ring shawl” test), and incredibly warm.
Note: The production and sale of Shahtoosh shawls is now banned worldwide under CITES to protect the endangered antelope species.

Raffal Shawls: These are made from thicker, more durable Merino wool and are a more affordable option. They can feature elaborate embroidery due to the stronger base fabric.

How to Identify an Authentic Shawl
When purchasing an authentic Kashmiri shawl, look for the following indicators:
Feel and Weight: Genuine shawls feel extremely soft, warm to the touch, and are surprisingly lightweight. Counterfeits often feel heavier and may be rough or scratchy.
Weave Irregularities: Authentic pieces are handwoven on traditional looms and will have minor inconsistencies or an “irregular weave” when held up to the light. Machine-made shawls have a perfectly even, uniform weave.
GI Tag: Certified authentic Pashmina shawls from Kashmir carry a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, which guarantees the material, hand-spinning, and hand-weaving process.
Price: Be wary of unrealistically low prices. The time and skill involved in creating an authentic, high-quality shawl mean it will be a significant investment.
Lack of Shine: Real Pashmina has a natural, subtle sheen, not the excessive glossiness often seen in synthetic or blended imitations.
The Burn Test (Use with caution on a small fringe thread): Genuine animal fiber smells like burning hair and turns into powdery ash. Synthetic fibers will smell like burning plastic and melt.
Fringes: Authentic shawls typically have loose, natural fringes rather than braided tassels.